| This is the sand that you use to sand cast with. Its fine grade with clay added to keep it togather. The mix is 80% sand 15 to 18% clay and 5 to 3 % water. |
| Ok this is know as a break test. Take some sand and make a ball, then break it in halve, and if it breaks cleanly then you have good bonded sand. If not then you need more clay or water. |
| This is the flask its in two parts the cope ( top halve ) and the drag ( bottom halve ) and they fit right as one part then togaether. |
| Now sift some sand so the finest sand will be around the pattern. |
| Now use a ramer to press the sand in all the voids. This ramer has two sides one you see here is the wedged end, and the other is the blunt end or flat end. |
| After raming up the drag use a strate strait edge to make the bottom of the flask flat. |
| Ok now the drag is fliped over, and now you can see the pattern. |
| Now the cope can go on. NOW this is something to remember use a lot of parting dust, the sand will try to stick from the cope to the drag, and thats bad... |
| Now remove the pipe, and use your finger to make a funel so its easier to pour. |
| Next take some wire, and go down into the sand almost to the pattern. These are air vents for the gases that come out from the metal, and the sand. Poke 1 for ever inch or two over the pattern. |
| Now then the cope can come off. |
| Next a "gate" needs to be cut so the metal can flow from the sprue to the casting. |
| Next the patten is removed showing a nice clean parting line. |
| Almost there dust the whole pattern for a cleaner pour. |
| And here is the finished casting. =) |
Very informative, Ethan! :) I like the title for this post. ;)
ReplyDeleteThanks I thought you would. ;-)
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